Sikhs & Exiles

In the ‘Golden Triangle’ of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur the Imperial Mughals’ Moslem legacy contrasts with the Hindu heritage of Rajasthan. India’s complex religious hstory is further revealed in this arrangement for the returning traveller, examining the position of Sikhism, Buddhism and Christianity in the foothills of the Himalayas. Sikhism, in Indian terms, is a relatively new religion. Founded by Guru Nanak in the late 15th century as a reaction against the Hindu caste system, its most holy shrine is the spectacular Golden Temple at Amritsar. Their holy book still moves daily in and out of the illuminated Temple in the devout Palki ceremony whilst many thousands of pilgrims are fed daily in astounding volunteer kitchens. McLeod Ganj (upper Dharamsala), named after the Lieutenant Governor of the Punjab, is the residence of His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama, who claimed asylum in 1960 after the Chinese invaded Tibet, and a Tibetan community has developed not far from their Himalayan homeland.

Shimla enjoys stunning scenery and was the summer resort of choice for the government of the British Raj, who chose ‘voluntary exile’ from the stifling heat of the plains. A totally ‘white’ paradise, with only Indians of rank allowed on its Mall, a considerable part of its charm today is that children munch chappatis in Tudor tea rooms and Hindus visit the Christian Church as a monument. All may now enjoy the unforgettable narrow gauge ‘Toy Train’ built by the British to access this mountain retreat.